Every digital camera features an essential setting: white balance. This setting neutralizes unwanted color casts and can be adjusted during shooting or in post-production.

To experiment, set your camera to automatic white balance and observe the results on the camera screen. Under natural light, the displayed colors will typically match the scene seen with the naked eye. However, differences may be more noticeable, and sometimes less tolerable, particularly in photos taken under artificial lighting.
How Human Vision and Cameras Handle White Balance
Unlike cameras, human vision constantly adjusts to neutralize color casts, ensuring that white is always perceived as white, regardless of the light source. This is particularly effective in natural light.
However, in specific environments like a darkroom with red light or under narrow-spectrum lighting such as colored LEDs, objects will appear to take on the hue of the light source.
Currently, cameras cannot replicate the adaptive and neutralizing capabilities of human vision, which are the result of millions of years of evolution. Camera white balance algorithms still have significant advancements to make.


Daylight
Color and motion picture films are balanced for specific color temperatures: 5500 K for daylight or 3200 K for tungsten light. Deviations from these values result in a color cast. Digital cameras, however, provide greater flexibility. For instance, the Nikon D850 offers 16 presets, which include 4 automatic settings, one for tungsten lighting, one for flash, 3 for daylight, 7 variations for fluorescent lighting, and a custom setting.

White Balance: Automatic vs. Manual Presets
White balance presets are valuable for achieving accurate colors and avoiding unwanted color casts, especially when saving images in JPEG format, where post-production color correction is limited. However, using presets effectively requires photographers to be disciplined and anticipate significant changes in color temperature. While the automatic white balance function often performs well, photographers accustomed to Kodachrome and reversal film might prefer the sunny preset for outdoor photography, which is set at 5500 K.


In the studio, the reference chart
For optimal color fidelity, especially in post-production, it’s essential to save files in Raw format. In the studio, the flash preset matches the color temperature of the flashes, similar to daylight (5500 K). A calibration chart, such as those from Calibrite, X-Rite (ColorChecker), or Datacolor (Spyder Checkr), is valuable for determining a custom white balance during shooting and offers a similar function in post-production. These charts are particularly useful when a subject lacks a neutral value that could otherwise be used to correct color casts.

Postproduction
White balance presets are available in all Raw processing software, though they are often overlooked in favor of custom adjustments using the eyedropper tool. Presets can offer satisfactory results, particularly when the initial balance is unsatisfactory, or when it’s unclear which reference area to use for an eyedropper balance. For instance, in a portrait without a reference chart, selecting the white of the eye to neutralize a color cast may not always be appropriate. If neither the eyedropper nor a preset provides the desired outcome, manual adjustment will be necessary, focusing on the blue-yellow color temperature axis and the magenta-green hue axis.


Color fidelity and intentional color cast
Your monitor must be calibrated so that the white balance is accurate and truly matches what you see. In post-production software, start with the preset that is closest to what you want to achieve, then begin by adjusting the temperature slider (the arrow keys on the keyboard change the CT in increments of 50 K). Then move on to the tint to neutralize the magenta or green cast. Finally, remember that white balance is also a personal choice and that a slight cast often adds character to the image.

Discover the photography courses at Spéos
Spéos offers various training courses ranging from simple one-week photography workshops (initiation and advanced level) to 3-year courses. The long courses to become professional photographers allow you not only to master all the photographic techniques and its vocabulary (blurs, hyperfocus, sharpness zone, depth of field, backlighting, focal length, shutter release, autofocus, wide-angle, rule of thirds, etc.), but also all the stages of shooting and image processing.
Visiting the school allows you to discover the premises, the studios and the equipment, and is undoubtedly the best way to familiarize yourself with your future way of working. This is why, in addition to the open days, Spéos offers throughout the year personalized visits by appointment to come and discover the school with a member of the team.
Text and photos: Philippe Bachelier, teacher of Printing techniques at Spéos